You can search for traces of Miłosz, discover a metaphysical city and its loftiness, rooted in history and tradition. If you dream of returning to the past, finding a time machine to explore past Kraków of the Belle Epoque, this is no place for you. Instead, epochs travel here, through people. They endure in favourite places, in distinctive poses, by engaging in discussion with the here-and-now and the future.
Modernism and decadence, in their unique, Young Poland movement style, have left an indelible mark on Kraków’s atmosphere and the design and architecture of its tenement houses, churches and interiors. The dramatist Stanisław Przybyszewski delivered his grand, passionate speeches here. Stanisław Wyspiański, author of great national dramas, artist and designer of stunning stained-glass windows, was born and lived here. In contrast with many other European cities, Kraków never turned into a caricature of itself. It doesn’t disappear in a puff of smoke; it doesn’t turn into a museum or a flea market. The city’s poem is sensitive to kitsch; it is uncompromising and has a sense of irony. And it is constantly being written, even right now. It wants to be written forever – to become a complete book.